Semillon

94P+: Now this is a truly gorgeous wine from the Franschhoek Valley in the Coastal Region of the Western Cape, one that showcases just how well Semillon performs in South Africa. You’ll find just about everything you know and expect from a high-quality Semillon wine in this bottle. Notes of beeswax, white peach, pear, tangerine, lemon curd and smoke? Check. Rarer nuances of tarragon, chamomile, fennel and lemongrass? Check. Rich texture? Check too. A lanolin mouthfeel? Check once more. Aging capacity with likely further development and noteworthy potential for real complexity? Check again. In short, this is a drop-dead gorgeous wine that is still an infant and ought to develop splendidly while making you wonder, at every sip, why there isn’t more Semillon planted all over the world and many more wines available. From a very great vintage, the Boekenhoutskloof 2018 Semillon Franschhoek Valley South Africa is an absolute beauty made from exceptionally old Semillon Blanc and Semillon Gris (the latter is a natural mutation of the former) plantings dating back to 1902, 1936 and 1942, enriched by a small touch of Moscato d’Alessandria (Muscat of Alexandria or Zibibbo). The 1902 and 1942 vines are non-irrigated bushvines planted on alluvial-loamy soil, while the 1936 vineyard is planted on decomposed granite and quartz.

The 2018 Sémillon comes from vines planted as far back as 1902, the fruit whole-bunch-pressed and fermented in a combination of French barriques, concrete eggs and clay amphorae. It has a defined bouquet of yellow flower (dandelion?), white peach and subtle lime aromas. The palate is well balanced with a dab of ginger on the entry and a waxy texture. Peach skin commingles with chamomile toward the finish. This is a classy Sémillon.

The 2018 Semillon was blended with 4% Muscat d'Alexandrie and begins with a nose of wax melon, pineapple husk, dusty yellow apple, a soft nutty tone and mineral essence. Medium-bodied, the wine displays a delightful, richly textured mouthfeel with a balanced mid-palate. The wine initially offers up flavors of sweet citrus and spiced mandarin orange before blanched almonds persist in the mouth with a thoughtful and complex spiciness. This Sémillon concludes with a clean, mineral finish that will remain food friendly until its tenth birthday. Seventy percent of the wine spent 14 months in 70% French oak, while the remainder aged in concrete egg and clay amphora.