Ruppertsberger Hoheburg 1. Cru

A graceful dry riesling with moderate weight that makes it very easy to enjoy, but this impression is somewhat deceptive, because there's a lot of depth here and this is certainly on a plane with Premier Cru whites from Burgundy. Drink or hold.

Because I wrote so extensively in my last report about how this wine showed from cask and about the estate's approach to the Hoheburg site and vines, I wanted to publish a brief note updating its performance now that it's spent close to a year in bottle. The wine is even more dominated (and impressively so) by mineral and animal elements than it was just before bottling. In particular, there is now a mouthwatering savor strikingly suggestive of mollusks, including a saline and seaweed-like streak reminiscent of raw oyster. I suspect I might be underestimating its aging potential even after just now lengthening my projection.