Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco (1955) Pinot Noir

The 2015 Cincuenta y Cinco, pure Pinot Noir from a vineyard planted in 1955 (cincuenta y cinco is Spanish for 55), is an elegant, direct red with tension obtained by fermenting the grapes from those stony, sandy and clay-rich soils in concrete vats with half of full clusters and indigenous yeasts. Forty percent of the wine matured in second use French oak barriques for eight months, while the rest of the volume was kept in concrete until blending and bottling. I tasted it twice because proprietor Piero Incisa della Roccheta was not happy with how the first bottle showed, even though I found it quite good. But he was right, the second one was even better, with more energy. They consider 2015 one of their finest vintages. This has a nose of ripe cherries, some violets and a sense of energy and freshness, with no trace of oak. The palate is extremely elegant, with ultra fine tannins and gobsmacking balance, all about subtleness without feeling diluted. This has power and elegance. For now and the next 10+ years. A superb showing for Cincuenta y Cinco. 17,500 bottles were filled in early January 2016.

You may have to wait a while before this wine, sourced from the winery's 1955 plantings, hits the market, as it's just been bottled. The wait will be worth it, however. Sappy, stony and complex, it combines savoury, red berry fruit, a nip of tannin and stylish, understated oak. 2017-22.